Thursday, November 22, 2007

Two surf stories




















Thousands of dragonflies migrating along the coast, not one moving in the other direction.

And this was from a few weeks ago (see above, breaking further out, thus bigger than it looks).

I surfed my nearest spot, which I found out is called Number Five (for the No 5 jetty), but it was pretty big, breaking so far out and I kept getting caught inside. So based on a previous exploratory mission I headed to the beaches to the south, where the outer bar breaks more softly, leaving a decent inside break.

The crappy part is that a section of the road that runs parallel and right along the beach, is privately owned and the owner decided to f the town and shut down his part. I figured I’d take it anyway but I came upon a barking guard dog so took a small inland detour. I rode through an abandoned campsite. I had to throw my bike and surfboard over a fence and then jump it, with two painters working close by. I felt like a spy, heading into the dark heart of Hasaki town. The evil owner and his henchman, trying to hide a conspiracy from under the noses of the innocent townspeople. The surfer, just looking for waves, innocently trespasses onto a dark secret.

Eventually I made it to a real beach break, but it was kinda closing out. Oh well.
And on the way back, I also stumbled upon the local shrine.

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